Eisenman says he set out to create an “uneasy, confusing atmosphere” and he’s certainly succeeded – you enter the jungle of concrete from any point and wander within (there is no admission charge). Soon, the undulating pathways and changing heights of the slabs will leave you isolated from the bustling city with an alternating sense of serenity and mild anxiety.
Walk in the park
The vast Tiergarten park in the heart of Berlin comes into its own during spring and summer, as an ideal place to lose yourself in bosky woodlands, lakes and miles of greenery. But even in winter, unless the weather is absolutely horrid, a stroll through the park makes for a wonderful respite from busy Berlin.
Pastry pit stop
During a day’s gallery-hopping in the city’s art district around Auguststrasse, stop off at Princess Cheesecake, where you can indulge in the German custom of afternoon coffee and cake. Its sweet creations blend gluten-free,low-sugar and fresh, organic ingredients, and the cheesecakes and coffees are divine. Try a classic baked cake or one of the more adventurous numbers, such as the “Mi Cariño Suave”, laden with toffee and candied almonds and topped with quark cream.
Wine and dine
Classic cocktails are enjoying a revival in Berlin, and at Schwarze Traube, a tiny speakeasy-style bar in the hip neighbourhood of Kreuzberg, you can sample some of the best the cithas to offer; owner Atalay Aktas was named Germany’s best bartender in 2013. There’s no menu: just tell the bar staff your flavour preferences and they’ll create something especially for you.
When it comes to dinner, you’re spoilt for choice in Berlin. You could try Mitte’s charmingly ramshackle Dóttir, where Victoria Eliasdottir – sister of Berlin-based artist Olafur Eliasson – is head chef of an Icelandic-themed kitchen. The menu offers clean, herby flavours and wholesome, organic character. Be sure to book ahead.
Visit Berlin’s Christmas markets with Radio Times Travel
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