It's been two years since we sat down for dinner at the Goodmans', but nothing much has changed. Adam and Johnny are still reluctantly coming round once a week and being infantile "berks" – bickering, pranking and sprinkling salt in each other's water glasses. They are still eating 'nice bits of squirrel' and shouting "s*** on it!" at regular intervals. Martin's still topless. And it's still as brilliantly funny as it was when it first aired in 2011.

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Friday Night Dinner is an unassuming comedy but it boasts a stellar cast – and if you've never tuned in, you're missing out, on its rude, crude and completely on-point gags; its clever depiction of grown-up family life; and its consistent ability to leave its viewers literally laughing out loud.

Tonight's opening episode doesn't disappoint. Martin's being suitably eccentric. He's dressed like Oscar Wilde and nervously shovelling tablespoons of plain flour into his mouth because an old university friend is coming to dinner.

He used to live with two Tonys you see. One he liked, and one who was strange and blinked too slowly. The nice Tony "got in touch via the computer" and now he's coming over for dinner. Only, he's not the nice one. Martin's got their "s***ing surnames" mixed up and "bloody blinkface" has just rung the doorbell instead.

Cue much awkwardness, tears, colossal lies and an epic made-up prayer to mark the death of a family member who is very much still living and breathing.

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Sound confusing? Well, the Goodmans tell the tale better than me. Dinner's at 10pm on Channel 4. Don't be late, bambinos.

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