About this programme

The first of three documentaries profiling London's prime food markets focuses on Billingsgate, which is on the verge of its biggest change in more than 1,000 years. With fish merchants and licensed porters like Roger Barton and Chris Gill facing tough times, the centre is under pressure to modernise, meaning its traditions are under threat. Will ancient custom or modern commerce win out? Smithfield and New Spitalfields are the subjects of subsequent programmes.